My history was started in a small town on the bank of a small talkative river under beautiful sky where I suddenly lost my pleasure while climbing.
It is not a big secret that the amateur enthusiasm at making something is disappearing as soon as this “something” becomes your professional job. That was the case...
I’m climber as long as I remember my self. Initially I took climbing as a sort of game. Later it became a life style. Now it should be my profession...
I’d never believe that this could happen with me because I loved climbing most in my life. But there I realized that my pleasure while climbing gone and the enjoinment from my movements on a rock wall is disappeared too. This news made me scared. Indeed, how can I do my job properly without getting back a fun? I’ve been engaging in soul-searching day-by-day but the answer seemed to me still was kept hidden. This is how my internal world looked like when I went in Turkey to climb in Geyikbairi rock area near Antalya.
I didn’t know what shall I expect from this trip although I aimed to find really hard route to work on.
If you’d asked me what was the reason to choose Turkey I were reply at least because you will be able to stay in a pomegranate garden and to be well fed with pomegranates since the morning up to the evening. Still remember that this paradise is possible only by late autumn time! Well, this is not a news that Turkey is reached with any kind of fruits and vegetables. A camp was located in 10-15 minutes to the rock routes. Our place was located in picturesque canyon with lots of sectors available.
I understood from my first days that I like this place just because it is so beautiful!
The rocks, the sea, the beach... All looked like we have just returned back to summer time. There were no problems in food supply, since our climbing area was located not far (less that 15 miles) from Antalya. Say, if you’ve got a rental car you will get back a non stop mobility. So you’ll be able to spend your rest time on a sea coast or other picturesque places. Still if you haven’t a car, a very hospitable local people will pick you up wherever you want. In addition there are lot of public transport in the region. There were only two weeks spent there, but they bring so many positive emotions and so big progress in my climbing and mood. Once I was asked where is best place to get climbing among Spain, Crimea, Greece, Slovenia or Turkey? I thought and suddenly realized that the answer cannot be certain because it depends from too many conditions. First of all it depends not from climbing as it is but from your perception of your climbing in relevant place. So cannot exclude your self from your final impression! The bad weather inside me have had disappeared right after I got this insight. Indeed, we are the main creator of our internal weather and our attitude to what we are doing! So it is entirely under our control how can we be - happy or unhappy. The clear understanding of this stuff gives you potential to fix your-self.
This time in Turkey I made my best to fill all my time as productively as possible. Still I didn’t forget to get my pleasure from this. The result of such a strategy was just amazing. I forgot when I felt my self as good as there. So, as soon as we found the root of our failures inside our selves they will just escape to make us free from heavy and useless thoughts…
My work day included an early up (it was much easer than in my city life), a morning yogi, bathing in an icy mount river and than light morning meal. The climbing was the only activity through the rest of the day up to about 5 p.m. when a darkness came. Such an ideal schedule gave me a fit of energy and fresh emotions-perceptions. My usual climbing joy had been returning back to me step by step. It took some time, but eventually I realized that I can control my emotions, my thoughts and my viewing. Than I got belief in this and I have changed my self by the end of this trip.
All what you need to get such changes are good team with the positive spirit and many hours of climbing.
Our team was good indeed. It included all my family plus some amateur rock climbers from our rock center «La Scala, Dnepropetrovsk, Ukraine». Vitaly Mateokha and Bogdan Chaika have made their first successful 7c+ climb (“Leon”). Irina Kirichenko has made her first successful 7a+ climb (“Lifeiswhatyouchoose”). Jaroslav Zlatokrylets and Olga Dmitrenko made 6b+ climb ( “Arkadon”.). My mama played the role of our coach. So it was a pleasant surprise for all of us to see how easily she made a couple of successful 7c+ climbs: “Pumpingonbigmother’sbreаsts” and “Leon”. My dad made lot of successful 7c+ onside climbs. He worked hard on “Happyend” climbing (8c) and finally he made it with the one breakdown during the climbing. I’m really proud to see how good is a present day level of our team and how quick is its progress!
Eventually this trip was quite successful for me too. I made “Happyend” (8b) and “Ikarus” (8a)- all after three attempts. Sometimes 8a could look even harder that 8b, you know! Especially if it’s not your favorite climbing style. Thanks to Alexander Zelinsky I also made “Jesuiscuite” (8а). He made it right before my attempt. So his advices were just in time! I’d like to stress that it was my big pleasure to get climbing on Turkish rocks. Its relief and texture allows you expressing all your skill in smooth movements and different styles of climbing.
During our resting days we went to watch sunrise on a seacoast. Frankly, this was so remarkable events that it is hard to find a proper words to describe them. The seawater was unexpectedly warm and the days were hot despite on the middle of November. Still I prefer to keep a puff on my shoulders during an evening time.
Finally I have discovered for my-self the new climbing region, new country with lot of excellent and kind people. I got a fresh flow of the positive emotions.
So wellcome to Turkey, an autumn rock climbing paradise!
Sponsors: SCARPA, CAMP, MILO.